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Cooking from what is already in the cupboard

A way through a half-empty fridge on a weeknight: start from the thing that will spoil first and let the cupboard fill in the rest.

Most weeknight cooking is not a recipe problem. There is food in the house. The difficulty is that it does not look like a meal, and working out what it could become takes more energy at seven o’clock than the cooking itself.

The trick is to stop asking what you want to eat and start asking what will not survive until Thursday.

Start from what is about to go

Open the fridge and find the thing with the shortest life left in it. Half a bunch of coriander, a courgette going soft at one end, the last of the cream. That item is now the brief. Everything else in the meal exists to support it.

This sounds like a constraint and works like a shortcut. “What shall I cook” has a thousand answers and no way to choose between them. “What do I do with this coriander and these two eggs” has about four, and you can pick one in under a minute.

The cupboard is the second half

A cupboard with tinned tomatoes, a tin of chickpeas, stock, pasta, rice, oil, vinegar, mustard and something acidic will finish almost any brief the fridge sets. You are not looking for a recipe that uses exactly what you have. You are looking for a shape:

  • Something fresh that needs using
  • A starch to carry it
  • A fat to cook it in
  • An acid to stop it being flat

Nearly every quick dinner is those four in some arrangement. Once you can see the shape, a half-empty fridge stops looking like a problem and starts looking like three of the four parts already solved.

Write the list down once

The reason this fails is rarely the cooking. It is that nobody knows what is in the cupboard. Things get bought twice and other things sit at the back for a year.

Once — properly, once — write down what is actually in there. Not a live inventory you have to maintain, which nobody has ever kept up for more than a fortnight. Just the standing list: the eight or ten things you keep restocked because you cook with them. That list is what lets you answer “what can I make” without standing in front of an open door.

In Flavor Folio, What can I make? on the Decide and plan page starts from ingredients or a meal idea. Add your time and food preferences, choose one of three suggestions, and review its complete recipe before saving. Each idea lists extra ingredients you may need; adding groceries is a separate choice.

Ingredients and preferences for meal ideas
Start with ingredients, time, and food preferences. The screen uses illustrative sample data.

Cook it slightly wrong

The last part is permission. A recipe that calls for shallots will work with an onion. One that wants white wine will survive a splash of vinegar and some stock. Cream becomes crème fraîche becomes yoghurt stirred in off the heat, with diminishing but acceptable results.

Substituting is a skill, and like most skills it is mostly built by doing it badly a few times and noticing that dinner was fine anyway. The alternative — going to the shop for one ingredient at half past seven — is how a perfectly good fridge full of food turns into a takeaway.

Start with the thing that is about to go off. Most of the meal is already in the house.

Keep the recipes you love.

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